When Omega launched the latest iteration of the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch in early 2021, it brought a mix of modern refinement and vintage charm. The Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch remains one of the most iconic chronographs on the market, with its stainless steel bracelet and Hesalite crystal continuing to capture the essence of its NASAmcertified heritage.
Let’s break down its strengths, key changes, and areas where it could be improved.
The Speedmaster Professional has stayed true to its roots while incorporating subtle enhancements. The step dial, reminiscent of the classic 105.012 from the 1960s, adds depth to the design. The chronograph seconds hand now has a more historically accurate shape, and the bezel features the much-loved Dot Over Ninety (DON) detail. For enthusiasts, these are meaningful updates that honour the Speedmaster’s storied past.
Omega has introduced variations in the sapphire crystal model, which features an applied logo and a darker dial finish with more pronounced sub-dial detailing. Interestingly, multiple dial suppliers mean that minor variations exist even within the same reference.
The Hesalite version remains the purist’s choice, offering the same material used in the watches worn by astronauts on lunar missions. While Hesalite is prone to scratches, they can be easily polished out. The sapphire version is more scratch-resistant and offers a display case back, showcasing the upgraded movement.
Pricing has seen a steady increase, with the sapphire version commanding a significant premium. For those seeking an authentic Moonwatch experience, the Hesalite remains the more historically accurate choice.
One of the most notable refinements is the redesigned bracelet. It now tapers down to 15mm at the clasp, improving comfort and wearability. The brushed finish of the Hesalite version contrasts with the polished centre links of the sapphire variant, catering to different style preferences.
A micro-adjustment clasp was introduced post-launch, making it easier to achieve a perfect fit, particularly in Australia’s fluctuating temperatures. New buyers should ensure their model includes this upgrade.
The transition to the calibre 3861 is one of the most significant upgrades. Now a certified Master Chronometer, it delivers enhanced accuracy (+0 to +5 seconds per day) and resistance to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss. Omega’s Co-Axial escapement also promises improved longevity and reduced servicing needs.
For those seeking high-performance mechanical movements, the 3861 represents a step forward in reliability and precision.
The Speedmaster Professional’s 50m water resistance has been properly certified under METAS testing, ensuring it can handle everyday exposure to water. While it’s still not a dive watch, it provides peace of mind for general wear in Australian conditions—whether getting caught in a summer downpour or wearing it near water
The stainless steel construction and well-executed finishing make the Speedmaster a robust everyday option. The Hesalite crystal will inevitably pick up scratches over time, but this can be remedied with a quick polish. The brushed bracelet design effectively hides signs of wear, making it well-suited to regular use.
When this model launched in 2021, the Hesalite version was priced at AU$9,800. Today, that has climbed to AU$12,100, while the sapphire model has risen to AU$13,800. These steady price increases push the Speedmaster closer to luxury chronographs from brands like Rolex, Breitling, and IWC.
However, when compared to other high-end chronographs such as the Breitling Navitimer (AU$14,500), IWC Pilot’s Chronograph (AU$14,800), and TAG Heuer Monaco (AU$12,500)—the Speedmaster remains competitively priced for an iconic timepiece with genuine space heritage.
While the updates are largely positive, a few minor issues remain. Some units have a chronograph seconds hand that does not perfectly align with the 12 o’clock marker, though this is mostly noticeable under magnification.
Additionally, while 50m water resistance is an improvement, a bump to 100m would have been a welcome addition, making it more versatile in Australian conditions where water exposure is common.
The Speedmaster Professional remains one of the most iconic and well-regarded chronographs in the market. The latest model refines the formula while maintaining its heritage, offering better accuracy, improved movement technology, and enhanced wearability.
For collectors and enthusiasts in Australia, the increasing price is worth considering, but given the Speedmaster’s enduring legacy, strong resale value, and continued improvements, it remains one of the most compelling mechanical chronographs available today.
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